Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is a light red wine. It's low in tannin, so it doesn't dry your mouth out the way a big Cabernet can. Expect red cherry and raspberry, with something earthy underneath.

The grape is fussy about heat, which is exactly why Canada suits it. Cool nights in Niagara, Prince Edward County and the Okanagan slow the ripening down and hold the acidity in. That's what gives Canadian Pinot its freshness.

Almost none of it reaches a liquor board shelf, so the winery ships it to you directly.

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Is Canadian Pinot Noir ever made into sparkling wine?

Yes. Traditional-method bottles here blend Pinot Noir with Chardonnay, or use it almost alone as a Blanc de Noir. Both age on the lees for roughly two and a half to three years before disgorging, the same slow method Champagne uses.

What's a fair price for a bottle?

Most run $25 to $45. Single-vineyard bottlings can climb past $70. Pinot yields are small and the vines are fussy, so a very cheap bottle usually tastes it.

What food goes with it?

Roast duck or maple-glazed salmon both work, and so does mushroom risotto if you're skipping meat. Pour it a touch below room temperature, around 14 to 16 degrees Celsius. Warmer than that and the alcohol starts to push past the fruit.