White Wine

Canada's climate usually gets talked about as a problem to work around. For white wine it's the whole advantage.

Short seasons and cold nights keep acidity in the grape, which is exactly what a white wine wants. You can taste it right across this page: citrus and orchard fruit, a clean finish, and enough backbone to stand up to dinner.

Ontario is also on the short list of places where Riesling counts as a signature grape. Germany, Alsace, Austria and Australia's Clare Valley are the rest of that company. That is not a small thing to be able to say.

Most of the page sits between $20 and $40. Every bottle ships direct from the winery that made it, and plenty of them never turn up on a liquor board shelf.

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Which Canadian white wine should I start with?

Riesling, if you want the most Canadian answer. It's the grape this country does as well as almost anywhere. A dry Niagara bottle will show you what cool-climate acidity actually tastes like. If Riesling isn't your thing, an unoaked Chardonnay is the safest first move, since it shows the fruit without the barrel getting in the way. Pinot Gris is the gentlest option when you're buying for a whole table. None of these will cost you much to find out.

What's the difference between dry, off-dry and sweet?

Dry means the sugar has been fermented out, so what you taste is fruit and acid with no sweetness behind it. Off-dry leaves a little sugar in, just enough to round off the edges without reading as sweet. Sweet is unmistakable and is generally reserved for late-harvest wines and icewine, which say so on the label. The confusing part is that a wine can taste sweeter than it is: ripe fruit and oak both soften the impression. If it matters to you, look for residual sugar in grams per litre in the tasting notes, which many Canadian producers list.

How long does white wine keep once it's open?

Three to five days in the fridge, recorked. That is the honest answer for most of what is on this page. Cool-climate acidity works in your favour here: a high-acid Riesling is still drinkable on day four, when a softer wine has gone dull. What kills an open bottle is oxygen. Put the cork back in as soon as you have poured, and keep it in the fridge between glasses. A half-empty bottle fades faster than a nearly full one, which is the argument for finishing it.

What temperature should I serve it at?

Colder than most people think, but not straight from the back of the fridge. Around 8 to 10 °C suits crisp, unoaked whites, which is roughly twenty minutes out of the fridge on a warm day. Fuller, barrel-aged whites open up a little warmer, closer to 10 to 12 °C, because too much chill flattens the texture. If a wine tastes like nothing, it's usually too cold; if it tastes flabby, it's too warm. The sweeter whites here take the same treatment as the crisp ones, cold and in a smaller glass.

What food goes with Canadian white wine?

The acidity does the work, so think about anything rich enough to need cutting through. Lobster, scallops and BC salmon are the obvious ones, and butter-heavy dishes are exactly what these wines were built for. Aromatic whites like Gewürztraminer and off-dry Riesling handle heat and spice better than most. A good call for a curry, or anything with real chili in it. Goat cheese belongs with Sauvignon Blanc. And an off-dry Riesling next to a butter tart is a genuinely Canadian way to end a meal.