Canadian Wine: The Best of Both Worlds

Originally from Québec, I have been living in Vancouver as an expat for the last 18 years. Expat might seem like a strong word, but the difference in culture justifies it precisely. The lifestyle is completely different, and it starts at the table.

Sitting at the bar at ‘Le Filet,’ one of my favorite restaurants in Montreal, I peruse the wine list. Aside from a few off-the-beaten-track choices from Italy and Germany, France dominates completely. No sign of wines from Oregon, Australia, South America or Washington; never mind British Columbia. But the list is exciting. You can find plenty of obscure French wine that you rarely see outside of France. Lesser known producers from the like of Cour-Cheverny, Jurançon, Gaillac, Fronton, Jasnières and Côtes du Jura either require a chat with the sommelier or a private conversation with your wine book on France.

The wine list of ‘Le Filet’ is not unique in Québec. The strong history between France and la Belle Province is still palpable. It's reflected not only in restaurants' wine lists, but in their understanding of the relationship between wine and food. These earthy, high acid and terroir-driven wines might not be your best friend when you drink them on their own, but they shine at the table. And consumers love them. A culture of spending long hours at the table with good friends eating heavy dishes requires some wines to ‘push it down’.

In British Columbia, BC wines are the equivalent of what French wines are to Québec. They dominate sales, not only in stores but also in restaurants. Not surprising, considering the number of wineries in the province. Fruit-driven, with a softer edge, the New World flavour profile of these wines charms consumers in a wine culture that is relatively recent. But the wines are evolving. Words like simple and straightforward are being replaced by mineral and complex to describe the best of what BC has to offer. The evolution of Pinot Noir is a great example of this. Wineries like Tantalus, CedarCreek and Meyer Family Vineyards are crafting serious Pinots that also shine better with food. The wineries are catching up with the rest of the world, and so are the consumers. Enjoying a bottle of wine with a fresh-grilled sockeye salmon is no longer reserved for special occasion; Monday night is reason enough.

As I enjoy a glass of red Burgundy with the perfectly cooked veal liver at L’Express in Montréal, I anticipate with excitement the Pinot Noir Celebration at Tantalus Winery that will take place in the Okanagan Valley in late August. From East to West, I do get the best of both worlds.

Michelle Bouffard is a wine educator and journalist who splits her time between Montréal & Vancouver. She co-owns the Vancouver-based company ‘house wine’ and is the president of the BC Chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. She Tweets @housewine_girls and Instagrams @michellebouffard.